Turkey ranks sixth in grape production, holds the world’s fifth-largest vineyard in the world, and is home to many interesting indigenous varieties (over 1,435 and counting). However, local wine production relies heavily on international grapes, especially French grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Of the over 1,200 domestic grape varieties, wine producers use a mere 40 while the rest are rapidly fading away.
This phenomenon is not exclusive to Turkey. After the early 19th-century phylloxera epidemic decimated vineyards across Europe, many replanted with hardier and easier-to-grow varieties. For example, Northern Italy was in danger of losing many of its native and traditional grapes like Ribolla Gialla, Vitovska, and Pignolo until the 1980s and 90s when a few dedicated producers fought to revive them.
Twenty years ago, you could probably count on one hand the number of Turkish grapes used in winemaking. Now, a new wave of winemakers and winery owners are championing native varieties and bringing them back from the brink of extinction. One of the leaders of this push to conserve native Turkish grapes is Seyit Karagözoğlu, owner of Paşaeli Wines.
Karagözoğlu’s first entrance to the wine profession was as an importer. In 1993 he founded KDT and began importing wine and beer to Turkey. In his words, visiting suppliers in Italy and France “opened his eyes,” and he came to the conclusion he wanted to do more than import wine—he wanted to make it. In January of 2000, at the age of 33, Karagözoğlu started a new phase in his life, that of a winemaker.